A full build is about $112 in commodity parts, and only one of them needs to be any good:
the arm. Everything else — the camera, the stylus, the mounts — is cheap, interchangeable, and
forgiving. Buy the list below, or substitute freely as long as you respect the three “what
matters” notes that follow.
The table hides the one thing worth knowing: the parts are not equally important. Here is what
each one is doing, and where you can — and can’t — cut corners.
The arm — the only precision part
Everything PhysiClaw does well or badly traces back to the arm. It carries the stylus across
the screen on X/Y and drops it on Z. A tap that lands a few millimeters off is the arm, not
the agent. The P25 is cheap, rigid enough for a phone-sized work area, and speaks standard
G-code — but any GRBL- or FluidNC-compatible X/Y plotter works. Spend your attention here.
The Z axis is a solenoid
The stock P25 ships with a small servo to lift its pen. PhysiClaw replaces that with a
solenoid — an electromagnet that snaps the stylus down to tap and releases to lift. A
solenoid gives a crisp, repeatable strike a slow servo can’t, which is why a long-press reads
differently from a tap. The firmware drives it over the board’s spindle
output, not a servo channel.
The stylus must be soft conductive fiber
To the phone the stylus is a fingertip, so it has to fool a capacitive touchscreen. Use a
soft conductive-fiber tip, 8–10 mm across. Hard rubber or plastic tips register
unreliably and can scratch the glass. This is a $1.50 part; don’t overthink it, but don’t
swap in a “precision” hard nib.
One camera, overhead
A single fixed-focus USB webcam looks straight down at the screen — there is no second
camera. It serves two jobs: a clean overhead read of the screen with the stylus parked
away, and a check of where the stylus is sitting before a tap. 1080p is plenty; fixed focus
is preferred so the image doesn’t hunt.
The rest of the list just holds the three important parts in place:
Gooseneck camera arm — clamps to the desk and holds the camera ~25 cm above the screen.
Metal, not plastic: flex in the gooseneck shows up as drift in every tap. (More on this in
assembly.)
Phone holder — an anti-slip pad plus two L-shaped blocks form a corner. The phone seats
into that corner the same way every time, which is what lets calibration
stay valid between sessions.
Powered USB hub — the arm, camera, and your phone’s screenshot bridge all hang off it. Use
a powered hub so the board and camera don’t brown out a laptop port.